The third and last day of fashion week was dedicated to festive/wedding wear and there were several varieties on display. One saw kaleidoscopic bursts of colour, twists and tweaks in conventional clothing and classic, craft-oriented designs. I have to confess that it used to be very difficult to sit through one collection after the other of wedding wear but also that I have become accustomed to it and my tolerance levels have risen. I also have to give some credit to designers who try to innovate and improvise on the most basic of bridal silhouettes.
Nomi Ansari is the sartorial equivalent of an engineer; his creations come together like a well-designed machine with not a stitch or colour out of place. They’re also a burst of colour, so this collection was aptly named Kaleidoscope, not to mention that the liberal use of mirror-work reflected each of the colours and split them into thousands of beaming lights. There was a hint of Sindh in this collection, especially in the opening pieces, the use of mirrors and also in the styling. It all came together with precision and was a delight to watch.
Huma Adnan loves to work with colour just as much as she loves craft, which is why her collections are a happy mix of both. A maximalist at heart, there was a lot of mix and matching in her work, which could have been edited and watered down in certain places but then the very ethos of Huma Adnan clothing would have been defied. It’s good to see the designer stick to doing what she loves.
Amir Adnan, a brand that has always been representative of the classic, stately man, has lately gotten a dose of young blood with the involvement of Parishae Adnan, Huma and Adnan’s daughter. This is where the sherwanis occasionally took a back seat in favour of shorter kurtas and layered looks. It was refreshing but I do feel the brand’s strength will always lie in the Amir Adnan forte – the sherwani.
Zainab Chottani has been busy with her lawn, luxury lawn and chikankari collections and I have to say that her collection of summer bridals, in its gentle and mostly monochrome palette, was also an extension of her ethos. The one point of variation, evident in several pieces, were the summery florals embroidered on the lehngas. This was a safe and sound collection, aiming for mass popularity, which it will get.
Saira Shakira have an interesting sense of aesthetic and like to tweak designs and tuck in surprises every now and then. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t but one does have to appreciate their love of innovation and the fact that they do think out of the box. Their finish is also very fine so it all works on the bridal bandwagon.
Standing out for its absolute commitment to tradition, The PinkTree Company presented yet another colourful, classic and utterly gorgeous collection. Made from cotton and using mostly traditional embroideries including gotta, this collection was uplifting, vibrant and Pakistani to the core. There were so many silhouettes ideal for summer and one can see them making a very strong mark at weddings.
Working its way through a rich and conventional as well as icy and contemporary palette, Tena Durrani very clearly displayed a collection that catered to all sorts of women, for the baraat as well as the valima. A pretty, well-assembled range. There wasn’t a single outfit that wouldn’t work with the clients, but then perhaps that was its weakness as well as its strength.
- Photography by Faisal Farooqui