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2 Oct

PLBW Day 3: The best for last

The third and last day of the PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week paraded some of the best names in the bridal business. I must say I have missed the presence of labels like Elan, Sana Safinaz, Misha Lakhani, Karma, Nida Azwer and Fahad Hussayn from the lineup but thankfully the fashion industry now has enough names to keep the ship afloat without having to rely on just one set of people. PLBW was steadfast in its strength and here’s how Day 3 transpired…



 

Nomi Ansari

Marjaan

Nomi 

I have said this a gazillion times before: Nomi Ansari can combine any two colours or a hundred and make them work. He has a distinct signature that actually does weld dozens of colours together and though the kaleidoscopic result may not be everyone’s cup of tea, it is a fine art that the creative whiz has mastered. Nomi also has a joie de vivre, a sense of fun and joviality that reflects in his designs; they are a manifestation of who he is and that’s what makes his signature so strong. It helps that he’s also a master craftsman.

I loved: The arm fringe, that lent a very eighties disco vibe to the outfits while retaining their traditional flair.

I wasn’t so haute on: the fact that the entire collection was super heavy and there’s wasn’t much for trousseaux and women looking for something lighter.

 

Zara Shahjahan

Mehrunisa

 ZS

The old world charm and antique feel was what set this collection apart. Dusty shades of ivory and gold, ganga jamini kaam, and a commitment to tradition is what Zara Shahjahan played on and while a lesser collection may have paled immediately after Nomi Ansari’s holi of colours, this one held its own identity.

I loved: The use of coral in wedding wear, the revival of kiran on the dupattas and the menswear, in particular, which was crisp and well designed.

I wasn’t so haute on: the fact that like Nomi, Zara also showcased a collection only for brides whereas her collections in previous years featured some interesting and fun wedding clothing for girls other than the bride as well.

Sonia Azhar

Hypnotism

 Sonia Azhar

I really can’t ignore the elephant in the room here. We all wished we had been hypnotized BEFORE this collection was unveiled. For debutantes to showcase confused collections is pardonable but when someone as experienced as Sonia Azhar puts up a collection this aesthetically challenged it points to one question: why did the council approve it?

I loved: Sonia’s celebrity model, Ahsan Khan, who’s quite the star after his Udaari success.

I wasn’t too haute on: the collection.

 

Republic

Damask

 Ofrooq

This was not Omar Farooq at his best. The collection was sharply tailored but that that’s the least you can expect from a designer of Farooq’s caliber. It fell short in terms of design and innovation as the designer appeared to have put together an array of jacquards with options of how to tailor them. The two recurring motifs, embroidered on jackets, were just as non descript.

I loved: the conscious lack of bling and focus on sophistication, even in traditional menswear.

I wasn’t so haute on: the Damask motifs, especially the ‘rose’.

 

Muse

A Love like Ours

 DSC_5086 (1)

Muse’s love affair with wedding wear was painted on a palette of red, blue and cream and while the colours were beautiful and the embellishment was quintessential Muse, this collection got lost between translation from modern to traditional. Stuck somewhere in between, it did justice to neither of the genres and was as oddly positioned as a sore thumb. Disappointing, especially after Muse’s previously strong collections.

I loved: the palette and the incorporation of the classic shalwar, perhaps the only one I noticed in all of fashion week.

I wasn’t so haute on: the unflattering drop waist kurtas, the churidaars, and the motia headbands, which just didn’t work.

Ali Xeeshan

Khaamosh

 DSC_5964

Ali Xeeshan’s collection had all the makings of a successful showcase: a strong collection, a social message, runway theatrics and a one-of-a-kind showstopper, Mahira Khan. It also had the only introductory AV that actually made sense and was needed. Opening with an awareness video on child marriages in Pakistan and the need to break silence on them, Ali Xeeshan was a befitting grand finale to an already strong fashion week. Most importantly, this was a strong collection, one that we’ll hopefully see a lot of up ahead.

I loved: the palette, the styles and the attention paid to integrate the collection with the cause. I adored the monkey props and I absolutely loved the simple white outfit Rabia Butt wore.

I wasn’t so haute on: I really can’t think of a thing and isn’t that a fabulous thought to leave fashion week with!

 

 

Photography by Faisal Farooqui @ Dragonfly

 

 

 

Aamna Haider Isani

The author is Editor-in-Chief at Something Haute as well as Editor at Instep, The News. Full time writer, critic with a love for words and an intolerance for typos.