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29 Sep

PLBW Day One: a beautiful déjà vu

The PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Week began in Lahore yesterday and fashionistas from all over town wove their way to the venue, barricaded by containers and blockades erected in preparation for the PTI jalsa tomorrow. They managed, of course, setting the second round of the fashion week obstacle course in motion; that would be the front row tug of war. While essays can be written about the behavior pattern of the average fashionista and her obsession with self-importance, selfies and seating, this is about the beauty of design and so here’s an overview of what we saw…



1 HSY
HSY

The Kingdom

It was a fantastic idea to have HSY begin fashion week because he ensured that the right amount of good energy, high fashion and excitement was pumped into the event right at the beginning. His collection was divided into four segments and I have to say that the first, Kalajar, was my favourite. I loved the monochrome impact of black and gold; the feathery and metallic detailing lent the capsule a heightened couture experience.

The collection continued with a lot of what we expect from HSY but there was a refreshing sense of finesse that had been missing in previous collections.

I loved: the gold ornamentation and range of accessories that will be launching soon.

I’m not so haute on: very heavy, multi-tiered and layered wedding ensembles. I feel brides need to be able to walk without being weighed down.

 

2 Sania Maskatiya

Sania Maskatiya

August Dream

Before you say, “it’s September” let me just clarify that ‘August’ refers to royalty and kings and queens and this collection really was regal. The palette was pale, peach and the collection, when seen holistically, was a wash of gold dust. Up close there was magnificent detailing and impeccable finish. Even the menswear was crisp, wearable and very impressive.

I loved: the detailing and the delicacy of craft, visible up close, and the fact that despite working with a popular palette Sania managed to retain her signature values.

I’m not so haute on: the fact that there wasn’t much experimentation with silhouettes and the designer played it quite safe.

 

3 Saira Shakira-2
Saira Shakira

Zohra

A relatively new name to fashion, Saira Shakira have managed to rise to the surface because of their refined aesthetic and contemporary quirks that may hit or miss but they define them. It’s important for a designer to have that signature. The designer duo was experimental with their palette and their designs, introducing elongated column tunics and some fun colour combinations.

I loved: one outfit, featuring bold blue flowers which was a positively stand out piece.

I’m not so haute on: their construction, which wasn’t so perfect. The under-layers of an ensemble Fia Khan wore kept jutting out, and several embellished/silk trousers had technical issues.

 

4 Kamiar Rokni-2
The House of Kamiar Rokni

Heritage 2016

Take a bow Kamiar Rokni, Rehan Bashir and Tia Noon because this was the most magnificent collection one has ever seen. Every piece was a 21-gun salute to heritage and one could hear drumrolls whenever a model walked out. This collection unabashedly flirted with colour, made unapologetic commitments to tradition and basically just stood on the rooftops and shouted declarations of love! One would happily get married in each and every piece of this kaleidoscope of a collection.

I loved: basically everything but most of all the use of colour in relation with Pakistan’s indigenous craft. This is what fashion week is all about!

I’m not so haute on: again, the déjà vu of silhouettes. The colours were bedazzling but they didn’t blind one to the fact that the designers did not introduce any new silhouettes. But then again, this was a tribute to the past and not the future.

 

The Bank Alfalah Rising Talent showcase will be reviewed separately…

Aamna Haider Isani

The author is Editor-in-Chief at Something Haute as well as Editor at Instep, The News. Full time writer, critic with a love for words and an intolerance for typos.