A longer lineup and yet a quicker day, Day Two at the PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week began with a lineup of early shows including Lajwani, Rici Melion, FAS and Ahmed Bilal. Something Haute attended these shows and will be bringing you separate reviews shortly. Until then, here’s what happened in the evening…
Collection: Rani Baagh
Opening and presenting the only solo show of the day, Nida Azwer’s Rani Baagh reminded me of what a brilliant bridal couturier she is. Nida has a signature that plays within traditional colour tones and elevates it with her love for textiles and surface embellishment techniques. Her strengths stood out in this gentle and intricate collection that stayed within tradition but did tradition so well. Standing out for me was the menswear, which was developed with woven and braided silk; the technique of fabric manilpulation lent a maturity to an otherwise simple silhouette. Also brilliant was Nida’s display of coloured threadwork on silk shawls and saris; this looked like wearing the sartorial equivalent of a Mughal miniature.
Misha Lakhani is known for sophisticated and light weight wedding wear; hers are clothes made with relaxed refinement and skill. Ab e Rawan was no different and delivered exactly what one hopes from the brand. There was the inclusion of the hottest colour of the season – black – and lots of gold/silver tinsel work that was as fine as silk thread. It also set trends in high, bordered shalwars and cholis with ornamental detailing on the back. What I love most about Misha’s work is its delicacy and the fact that allows freedom of movement.
Debutant Zainab Salman coloured within the lines and stuck to a safe zone but her colours and structures were both sound. Her debut fashion week collection, Bazeecha-e-Ishq was cohesive and had the base for a solid beginning; all it needs now is a push in terms of innovation to stand out.
Jeem by Hamza Bokhari
The success of any young, new brand depends on two things: consistency and growth. It’s good to see Hamza return to fashion week, season after season, as the designer does have a creative spark, which could be seen in this collection. His ethnic pieces were interesting; the introduction of energy and colour was welcome. It just needed edits as the heavier, sequined joras may have the commercial pull but they leave no creative impression. I woud like to see a youthful, funky tradition ready to wear collection from Jeem; I do feel that’s where his strength lies.
Farah & Fatima
Farah & Fatima’s Dastaan again, was one that we have heard before. It wasn’t a bad collection and had a couple of interesting pieces like the strong shouldered tunic and the meshwork choli but overall could have done better with some experimentation.
The House of Kamiar Rokni
This was Kamiar Rokni’s first solo outing for The House of Kamiar Rokni and what a visual delight this outing was. I like to think of Kamiar Rokni as a shape shifter; he’s a design whizz who can create shapes and silhouettes in a way that no one would ever think of. He’s just an apt a traditionalist and craftsman, which is why his designs have the mystique and romanticism of the past as well as the racy sexiness of the the present. Kami knows how to play with shape and colour, which is what bridal couture needs if it is to be fashion forward. This is a collection that will go down in history as the defining point of PLBW2018. Day 2 could not have ended on a higher note.
If you haven’t read Day One review, do check it out here.
- All pictures by Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly