There’s something Maheen Khan said when I met her two weeks ago: “I love fashion weeks because that’s a time when we designers stop thinking about sales and start thinking about concept. It channels us towards creativity.”
Maheen will be showing her classic Maheen line as well as her high street label Gulabo at Fashion Pakistan Week 3 (FPW3), one of the many fashion weeks/showcases to happen over the next few weeks.
Her statement rings so true because the kinds of ideas I see evolve at fashion weeks are hardly the kind you see in shops and exhibitions. Not at lawn openings. Not at store openings and certainly not round the year. Ideas that push fashion ahead and (r)evolutionize trends are born at fashion weeks.
There are certain designers that I haven’t seen at a fashion week in the last two years and it makes me very happy to know that they will be showcasing (at one event or the other) in the upcoming three weeks. I wish I had a list or line up of any upcoming show because without one I can only write about designers who have sent/given me information directly. Anyway…
Bunto Kazmi will be showing a quintessential line at FPW3. She’s opening the event as a guest designer as she does not make ready to wear clothing, but I’m going to hold my breath for a whiff of the embroidered cashmere shawls, formal jackets and ensembles that will frame the essence of what she’s renowned for. This is ethnic Pakistani couture at its best and there will finally be a yardstick for excellence in handcrafted clothing. FPW3 will mark Bunto Kazmi’s fashion week debut.
Amir Adnan will also be making a debut of sorts this week. One of the most respected pioneers of the fashion industry and a very good friend of mine, Adnan has shied away from showing at fashion weeks until now, saying that his clothes are more geared for improving the business of fashion. That said, he has a very clear design ethos and it’ll be interesting to watch this seasoned player put up a show. He will be showing on the last day of Sky Production’s Showcase, which serves every purpose of a fashion week even if it is not titled as one.
After influencing a nationwide obsession with miniature Mughal paintings, Shamaeel will be returning to the fashion week arena at FPW3 with a fresh concept that will digress from what one has been seeing her create for the past two years and yet it will carry the Shamaeel hallmark. She last showed at FPW2 in 2010.
Sana Safinaz will be showcasing their classic line at the FPW3 and will probably include a diverse range of silhouettes from the new short and trendy daywear (the new Spring/Summer 2012 look) to the long and flared formals evening wear. SS stand for chic, sophisticated clothing and that’s what they plan to put out. SS last showed at FPW2 in 2010.
When Faiza Samee showcases tradition, she does it very well and that is what she’ll be doing on the last day of SHOWCASE, which starts in Karachi today. Faiza’s collection is based on the courtesans of old, walled city of Lahore and takes its inspiration from French author Claudine Le Tourneur d’Ison’s book on the subject.
I’m also looking forward to Deepak Perwani’s upcoming collection because he’s been on quite a victory roll with his lawn but when it comes to fashion nothing has surpassed the impact of his Flight of Fantacy collection or the Amrita Shergill collection, both shown at FPW1 & 2 respectively. Deepak will be showing at FPW3 next week.
Luxury designer Maheen Karim has been on a long hiatus and has in fact never shown at a fashion week. One looks forward to her new take on luxury prêt wear. Maheen will be showing her Tres Magnifique collection at the Sky Showcase.
Sadaf Malaterre is another interesting designer who has been on fashion week break. Having shown at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week twice, Sadaf was missed at the last two chapters however, she will be returning to the PFDC’s fashion week next month in Lahore.
After years in the business and several very critical reviews, Shehla Chatoor managed to acquire critical acclaim at FPW. She hasn’t shown since then but she is part of FPW3. Shehla’s collection, using a lot of leather and gold plated chains as accessories (which is her signature) is essentially fusion evening wear incorporating embroidered detailing and elaborate tassles.
Sanam Chaudhri will also be seen on the FPW3 platform with a collection that she calls casual and trendy. While Sanam never managed to make a mark at her previous fashion week showings, she has steadily gained a loyal following through her continuous designs that are stocked at Labels. One feels she has come into her own and will surely make a great impression this time!
Last but not least, a designer known for his love for tradition and colour, one remembers Nomi’s Black Magic and Circus collections shown at FPW and PFDC fashion week respectively. Nomi Ansari will now be showing at FPW3 and though he is having fun frolicking with lawn, one looks forward to seeing him in creative action at fashion week once again!
Have I forgotten anyone? I must have; this was no simple task! Not discussing new designers yet, and not even those who have been fashion week regulars and one anticipates just as eagerly. Whew!
(For photographs I have to thank Lotus and Catwalk who always send pictures for my personal data. Most by Faisal Farooqui, if not all)