The best thing about the line up at this fashion week was the fact that it had been edited. From thirty plus collections it had come down to around 24 including the charity and PIFD showcase. The daily shows may still not have taken the format of international fashion weeks but they are getting better in terms of presentation. It appears as if things are gradually improving. The foreign media present, at least, was thinking fashion and not the Taliban (finally!). There will be an appreciation of fashion this time, not just the peddling of a fascinating stereotype.
The collections on day four:
Feeha Jamshed nailed it for Teejays once again. The cotton ghararas were impressive and potentially trendsetting as was the fact that many of her tunics and tops had been paired with tights instead of wide legged trousers. One cannot praise Feehaâ€™s design sensibility enough and hopes that one day her production will be just as smooth.
Maria B opened the day with her military inspired collection. Though some pieces were not bad one couldnâ€™t help feeling that it was all too passÃ©. Military is so last season and done to death. The plastic guns looked tacky. And while the army felt badges looked super interesting as a replacement for embellishment, the odds that the designer will actually be permitted to use them in saleable collections are thin.
Sobia Nazirâ€™s collection was definitely not bad. The problem was lack of innovation or eye-catching designs; it was deja vu of everything one has been seeing for the past two years. An auntie-pleaser no doubt.
Ammar Belalâ€™s tribute to New York was brisk and bold, as all his collections are. And although one sees its wearibility as very limited, it was a pristine display of this designerâ€™s signature that he is unwilling to compromise and thank god for that! The finale dress was kick-ass!
Sadaf Malaterre, one has to say, has always designed better. The plus point was that she used a crisper kathan silk instead of the usual draping satins and chiffons and that she brought structure to some of the clothes. Her personal style aesthetic is uber-chic but one feels that something got lost while manifesting it in this collection.
I have special words for HSY, who presented the finale once again. HSY I feel is one of those designers who have done much, much more for fashion in Pakistan than collections and designs. His tirelessly implemented strategies have changed the way shows are held, choreographed and fashion is marketed in Pakistan and thatâ€™s a huge achievement. Easy to work with and professional to deal with, Sheroo sets an example for many to follow.
This yearâ€™s finale collection had its hits and misses â€“ it was more autumn/winter than spring/summer or resort (which it was labeled) and the designs also had their highs and lows. My favourite piece was the embroidered grey skirt with a double layered asymmetrical top that Sabina Pasha wore. A definite improvement on bringing bridals to fashion week, I do feel that had Sheroo spent a little more personal time on the collection it would have been a winner.
Photographs exclusively for this blog by Humayun M.